J.Hilburn Newsroom

Category: Fit Library

  • Suiting Vest Profile

    Suiting Vest Styles

    J. Hilburn offers three distinctive suiting vest styles, each designed with exceptional attention to detail.

    • The Fashion Vest features a lapel design and three pockets, including two besom mitered flap pockets and a besom ticket pocket for a sophisticated touch.

    • The Suiting Vest is available with three customizable pocket options, flap, flap with ticket, and besom.

    • The Formal Vest is elevated with satin trim detailing on the buttons and besom pockets, adding a refined finish ideal for special occasions.

    Suiting Vest Profile

    All three vest styles utilize the Suiting Vest profile. When creating a new Suiting Vest Profile TAPE will recommend the best fit for your client based on his core measurments and fit preference. 

    • Size: Generally matches the Client’s core body measurement,
    • Waist: a waist adjustment is available up to  +2″  for larger clients. Clients with an average or slender waist can use the cinch belt on the vest back to draw in the waist of the vest 
    •  Body Length: Indicates the recommended center back length for the Client. Changing the body length of the vest will adjust the button placement up or down. Available Lengths: Extra Short, Short, Regular, Long or Extra Long
    • Length Adjustment: Available in a range of +/- 1″. The length adjustment changes the finished length without moving the button placment.
    • Pattern: Suiting Vests are available in the Standard, Athletic or Extended patterns. TAPE will recommend the correct pattern based on the Client’s core measurements.

    Suiting Vest Profile Tooltips

    The Suiting Vest Profile features tooltips for Finished Body Length and Finished Half waist. Utilize these tooltips to confirm if the selected profile will match the Client preference. 

  • Relaxed Chino

    Relaxed Chino

    The relaxed chino is our exciting new chino silhouette designed with greater ease in the seat, a higher rise and a straighter leg opening than our standard chino. For medium stretch fabrics, the relaxed chino has 3” ease over the ordered hip measurements and the standard leg of a size 40 is approximately 17 5/8”. Which will vary slightly based on the hip measurement. And both flat and double reverse pleats are available as styling options

    How To Order Relaxed Chino

    The relaxed chino is located under the casual pant category and is available in the same fabrics as the regular chino. After selecting relaxed chino, you will be prompted to make a new product profile during the customization process. 

    The preference selections for a Relaxed chino are pre-set to match the intended fit featured in our Key looks. We do not recommend changing the recommendation. Tooltips are available to confirm finished measurements for hip, rise and leg opening. For all clients we recommend the outseam length to be 1” shorter than his core outseam measurement.

  • Chino and Short Master class

    With the new Chino profile, you can achieve fit success for your Clients with a single product profile for all Chino fabrics.  By utilizing the new Fabric Stretch Index ( F.S.I.) we automatically adjust the finished measurements of a client’s Chino to ensure he achieves the same fit and feel with every fabric. Once a Client’s fit is established you can order with confidence knowing that all his Chinos will fit the same.

    Table of Contents

    Fabric Stretch Index

    The J.Hilburn Fabric Stretch Index is the system we use to determine the stretchiness of our casual pant fabrics. Each of our fabrics is given an FSI number which is established by testing the LBS force necessary to stretch the fabric 20% in the weft direction. Based on the F.S.I. range each fabric is assigned to either the low, medium, or high stretch group.

    • The FSI is listed in Green Room and in the fabric description on J.Hilburn.com to help stylists understand how stretchy a particular fabric is. Begining in Spring 2024 F.S.I. will also be listed on casual pant swatches.

    Great news! It is not neccessary for a Stylist to apply the F.S.I. to a Client’s profile. The F.S.I. is applied by T.A.P.E™  automatically behind the scenes before the finished measurements of a Client’s pants are sent to the factory. 

    Chino and Short Hip Preference

    How to Establish Fit Preference

    During the pre-appointment survey your Client answered questions regarding his Chino fit preference. In step two he selected his hip preference and leg opening preference. If your Client is uncertain about his preference Trim is always a great option.

    For existing Client’s utilize the ADD PROFILE button under Chino/Short on a Client’s measurement and fit page. Or select to create an F.S.I. Chino at order entry. The Chino Short fit quiz will automatically open and you can confirm your Client’s fit preferences.

    The new Chino/Short profile lists the client preference at the top of the profile, similar to JH Fit Trouser.

    The editing screen offers the ability to change a client’s preference using the Launch TAPE Assistant button. Tool tips  provide finished garment measurements and toggles allow for further customization of fit. 

    On the 5 pocket editing screen the hip tooltip provides the finished hip measurement for each FSI group

    On the Chino/Short profile editing screen the Short outseam tooltip converts the outseam measurement to an inseam measurement. This can be helpful if a Client prefers a particular inseam, say 9″ in his ready-to-wear shorts.

    Relaxed Chino

    Relaxed Chino Style

    .

    • New silhouette with more ease in the seat and a straighter leg
    • 3” ease over ordered measurement for medium stretch fabrics
    • Standard leg opening at approximately 17 5/8” for a 40 hip.
    • Higher rise than standard chino
    • Recommended outseam 1” shorter than core measurement.

    Option for flat front or double reverse pleats

    Step 1: Select Relaxed Chinoe from Product Menu

    • Step 2: Create a Relaxed Chino Profile. Green Room will prompt you to create a new profile on the customization page. 
    • Select Relaxed Chino
    • The Relaxed Chino profile recommendation is pre-set to match the fit featured in Key looks.
    • We do not recommend changing any of the settings.
    • Tooltips are available to confirm finished hip, rise and leg opening measurements.

    FAQ

    • Existing clients can continue to order from their confirmed profiles. F.S.I. will not be applied to existing profiles. Existing profiles can be edited but it will not be possible to create a new profile in the old body fit format.
    • Existing clients moving into a new fabric should create a new FSI Chino profile.

    Chino QC data will reflect the ordered, expected, and actual measurements.

    • Ordered: same measurement as product profile
    • Expected: measurement sent to factory reflecting Client preference and F.S.I.
    • Actual: measurement taken by Q.C. operator at the factory.

    For a Client who would like a different hip preference for different fabrics and styles, the Stylist should create multiple profiles. For example, if a client would like an Americano Chino with a slim hip and summer cotton shorts with a trim hip. In this case, the Client would have a Slim Chino profile and a Trim Short profile.

    If your client wants to change the fit on his Chino, we recommend utilizing the product fit quiz to update his preference choice. 

    The FSI adjustment does not affect the finished waist measurement of the Chino. The Chino finished waist measurement will always be 1″ larger than the ordered waist measurement. For example an ordered 32 waist will be finished at 33″.  When a Chino is ordered using the FSI profile the waistband of the pant is stabilized for all fabrics to achieve fit consistency. This means that even if a fabric is high stretch the waistband it will not stretch. If your client prefers to have a waistband with stretch select the Comfort Waistband option at order entry.

  • Vest Front Hybrid Blazer

    Creating Fit

    • The Vest Front Hybrid Blazer is associated with the Outerwear Jacket Group 2 Profile, so the Fit Quiz that corresponds will provide recommendations based on the intended fit of a jacket outerwear piece.
    • It is important to note that in the TAPE Fit quiz, TAPE will automatically subtract 0.5” from your clients Core Measurement Sleeve Length to create the Sleeve Outseam for his Jacket/Vest Profile. This Is the correct measurement for your client’s outerwear sleeve and you do not need to adjust It.
    • Please see the photo for intended fit. If your client desires a more relaxed fit, select the Layering Option in the TAPE Fit Quiz.

     

    Due to fabrication, it is not possible to alter the Hybrid Blazer.

     

    Styling

    Outerwear Custom Style Guide

  • Puffer

    Creating Fit

    • The Puffer jacket is associated with the outerwear jacket profile group 1. The Fit Quiz that corresponds to the outerwear jacket profile will provide recommendations based on the intended fit of the Puffer Jacket.

    Alterations

    Due to the construction and fabric of the Puffer jacket it is not possible to alter the fit by a tailor. 

    Outerwear Custom Style Guide