Fit Foundations is your weekly fit tips and tricks from the Fit Advice team. Each week we focus on a topic that has been trending on phone calls and emails.
Category: Fit Foundations
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JH Fit Sportcoat Cheat Sheet
Do you have questions on JH Fit Suiting? Uncertain on the uniblock pattern for sportcoats and trousers? Want to know the difference between a Slim fit trouser preference and a Trim fit. For all these questions and more explore the links below.
Check out this article for an in-depth analysis of how one Client’s finished sportcoat profile changes based on his preference answers
When recommending a JH fit profile for your Client T.A.P.E. recommends the best pattern type for your Client.
- Uniblock: Is our base sportcoat pattern and is recommended for most Client’s. The uniblock pattern has a 2″ taper from chest to shirtwaist. T.A.P.E. will recommend a waist/hip adjustment based on your Client’s core measurements and fit preference.
- Athletic: The Athletic fit Jacket pattern is recommended for Client’s with a Chest to waist taper of 8″ or above. The Athletic Fit Jacket has a wider back and shoulder than the Uniblock at the same size. Athletic fit is recommended for Client’s with a larger overarm and a 8″ taper.
- Extended: The Extended Fit pattern is recommended for Clients with a 52 or larger chest.
Remember T.A.P.E. will always recommend the correct pattern for your Client based on his core measurement and fit preference.
There are 2 shoulder slope adjustments available for the Uniblock pattern. It is not recommended to apply a shoulder slope adjustment on a first jacket unless the Client’s posture is very obvious. Or he has a history of needing the alteration.
It is also not recommended to use a Shoulder Point adjustment together with a Shoulder Slope adjustment.
- A-Body: Used for a Client with a very sloped shoulder. Lowers the angle of the shoulder seam and lowers the armscye.
- T-Body:
Most Common Questions to Fit Advice
T.A.P.E. recommends for a Client to go down in the chest size if he has a 6″-7″ taper between his chest and shirtwaist. Clients in this category often do not have a large enough overarm and upper back area to fit into an Athletic fit jacket.
Should the Shoulder Point to Point on my client’s JH fit jacket match his core measurement shoulder?The Shoulder Point to Point alteration is available for Uniblock pattern jackets. This measurement is taken across the shoulders and differs from the Client’s core shoulder measurement. As the core measurement encompasses three points, it tends to be larger than the jacket’s shoulder point to point measurement. We suggest adding the shoulder point to point adjustment only when the Client’s core measurement deviates from the Shoulder Point to Point by more than 1 inch.”
On the measurement and fit page, the Client’s preference is shown at the top of the profile.
The order details page reflects the information that is sent to the factory. Therefore the pattern name is listed not the preference. In the example below the pattern name is Uniblock. The length adjustment and extra slim sleeve reflect the slim preference.
If we refer back to the profile edit screen these same options are shown under advanced alterations.
