J.Hilburn Newsroom

Category: SPORTCOATS/VESTS

  • Suiting Vest Profile

    Suiting Vest Styles

    J. Hilburn offers three distinctive suiting vest styles, each designed with exceptional attention to detail.

    • The Fashion Vest features a lapel design and three pockets, including two besom mitered flap pockets and a besom ticket pocket for a sophisticated touch.

    • The Suiting Vest is available with three customizable pocket options, flap, flap with ticket, and besom.

    • The Formal Vest is elevated with satin trim detailing on the buttons and besom pockets, adding a refined finish ideal for special occasions.

    Suiting Vest Profile

    All three vest styles utilize the Suiting Vest profile. When creating a new Suiting Vest Profile TAPE will recommend the best fit for your client based on his core measurments and fit preference. 

    • Size: Generally matches the Client’s core body measurement,
    • Waist: a waist adjustment is available up to  +2″  for larger clients. Clients with an average or slender waist can use the cinch belt on the vest back to draw in the waist of the vest 
    •  Body Length: Indicates the recommended center back length for the Client. Changing the body length of the vest will adjust the button placement up or down. Available Lengths: Extra Short, Short, Regular, Long or Extra Long
    • Length Adjustment: Available in a range of +/- 1″. The length adjustment changes the finished length without moving the button placment.
    • Pattern: Suiting Vests are available in the Standard, Athletic or Extended patterns. TAPE will recommend the correct pattern based on the Client’s core measurements.

    Suiting Vest Profile Tooltips

    The Suiting Vest Profile features tooltips for Finished Body Length and Finished Half waist. Utilize these tooltips to confirm if the selected profile will match the Client preference. 

  • Enhancements to the JH Fit Program

    Expanding the JH Fit Size Range

     Expansion of the JH Fit Size Range to size 60
    Previously available in sizes 34-51, the JH Fit jacket will now be extended to size 60. Since the introduction of sizes 50 and 51 in April 2023, feedback has been excellent, prompting us to further expand our size offering. The JH Fit Uniblock extended sizing features a narrower shoulder, slimmer sleeve, smaller armhole, and shorter length compared to our current Extended Fit jacket. Additionally, it incorporates an adjustable shoulder point-to-point measurement, ensuring a more refined fit.

     

    How is JH Fit Uni Block different from Extended?
    1. Improved sleeve shape with the bicep reduced by 1 ¼”
    2. Shorter Body Length by ½”
    3. Reduced shoulder by ½”
    4. Shoulder slope adjustment available
    5. Shoulder Point to Point adjustment available.
    1. There will be no change for existing clients. Both Extended and Extended Plus jackets are still available, allowing Clients to continue with their confirmed fit.
    • All T.A.P.E. recommendations have been updated to incorporate the new extended JH fit size range and increased waist/hip adjustment.
    • If you would like to update your client’s fit to incorporate the new sizes and adjustments we recommend the following:
      1. Remeasure your client and update his core measurement profile.
      2. On your client’s measurement and fit page, select to Add Profile.
      3. Select your Client’s fit preferences on the Sportcoat fit quiz.
      4. Save the new updated Sportcoat profile created by T.A.P.E.
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    If your client is happy with his current Extended fit sportcoat we do not recommend automatically changing him to the JH Fit. If your existing client would like a trimmer fit with a smaller armhole and a shorter length, he may wish to try the  JH Fit. 

    Enhanced Waist and Hip Adjustments

    To provide greater versatility, we have increased the waist and hip adjustment range from ±2 to ±3. This refinement enables a superior fit for a wider range of body types, accommodating both individuals with a larger midsection and those with a tapered waist who do not require the broader shoulders of our Athletic Fit sportcoat.

    How does this change affect Client’s who are happy with their fit?

    There will be no change for existing clients.

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    • All T.A.P.E. recommendations have been updated to incorporate the new extended JH fit size range and increased waist/hip adjustment.

     

    • If you would like to update your client’s fit to incorporate the new sizes and increased adjustment, we recommend the following:
      1. Remeasure your client and update his core measurement profile.
      2. On your client’s measurement and fit page, select to Add Profile.
      3. Select your Client’s fit preferences on the Sportcoat fit quiz.
      4. Save the new updated Sportcoat profile created by T.A.P.E.

  • Sportcoat Master Class

    Table of Contents

    Sportcoat Fit Preference

    Our  Suiting is designed to integrate seamlessly with the T.AP.E™ pre-appointment survey. During the survey, your Client answered questions regarding his fit preferences. His preference answers combined with his core measurements are used by T.AP.E™ to generate his Sportcoat and Trouser profile. 

    The slim preference has a shorter length hitting the Client at mid-seat. It is contoured and Fitted with less ease thru the waist.

    The Trim preference has a longer length that covers the seat. It has more eas thru the waist for a clean look. This is our most common fit preference.

    The Classic preference is our longest jacket. It has the most room thru the waist and a length that extends past the seat. 

    Case Study: One Client, Three Preferencs

    JH Fit Profile

    The JH Fit Sportcoat profile was designed to simplify tailored clothing for new stylists. The JH Fit combines our most popular fits into one new pattern with advanced adjustment capabilities. New stylists no longer need to learn multiple fits and adjustments.  By utilizing the  T.A.P.E™ pre-appointment survey, a new stylist only needs to confirm the Client’s core measurements and fit preference to be well on the way to a great fit. Follow the links below for training videos and FAQ’s. 

    JH Fit PDF Training

    By clicking the edit button on the JH Fit Sportcoat profile a Stylist has access to all the information needed to achieve a great fit. The length tooltip on the editing screen provides the finished length of the client’s jacket including if he has a length adjustment. By clicking on Advanced Alterations a Stylist can confirm if T.A.P.E™ has recommended a length adjustment for the Client’s jacket. 

     T.A.P.E™   recommends Extended or Athletic patterns based on Client core measurements.  Within the JH Fit profile under Advanced Alterations, there is a box that indicates which pattern is being used based on core measurements and client preference.

    For a Client’s first sportcoat and trouser, we recommend using the T.A.P.E. Assistant to update the product profile. This quiz is located on the profile editing screen and is accessed by the blue Launch T.A.P.E Assistant button.

    Using the T.A.P.E. Assistant, the new stylist can update a Client’s preferences for all aspects of his sportcoat. After selecting Apply the updated profile T.A.P.E. recommends will reflect these changes.

     

    The Uni Block pattern is our base pattern which T.A.P.E™ recommends for all Client’s unless the Client requires an Athletic or Extended fit based on his core measurements. 

    Sportcoat Outseam

    Sleeve length is the core measurement which is used for your Client’s dress shirt. This measurement is shortened by T.A.P.E™ in the sportcoat product profile by 1.25” for the sportcoat outseam length.

    • Once a Client has a confirmed sportcoat outseam, changing the size or fit of the sportcoat will not affect this measurement. Since this measurement is taken along the shoulder to sleeve hem it is independent of the pattern.
    • The only exception to this rule is for an existing client with a converted outseam. Since the converted outseam is based on a previous inseam measurement it will change slightly if the sportcoat fit or chest size is changed. For this scenario we recommend contacting Fit Advice for assistance at fitadvice@jhilburn.com.

    No, the recommendation to shorten 1.25″-1.50″ from the core measurement sleeve length is the same for Extended Fit Clients. 

    We do not recommend ordering working buttonholes on a first order due to the difficulty of alteration.

    Extended Fit

    Just like our Standard Fits, our Extended Fit sizing  is designed to the individual man, resulting in clothing that has the fit, personalization, and options that make J.Hilburn unique.  J.Hilburn Extended Clients have access to all the amazing fabrics and style details as our standard sized clients and our full range of product offerings. With J.Hilburn you can outfit your Extended Client’s every wardrobe need.

    Tips for TALLER Clients:

    • Neck measurement = Have him lower himself by leaning over or bending forward
    • Shoulder measurement = Have him squat slightly so you can easily see the tape; only have him sit if he is unable to squat down

    Tip for ROUNDER Clients:

    • For all circumference measurements that are taken horizontally (IE. Overarm, Chest or Waist) = Have him hold 1 end of the tape, while you walk around him with the other end. Once you’re back in front of him, you can take both ends of the tape to record the measurement
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    • In the Stylist Store we offer Extended Sizing Measuring tools to assist with measuring Extended Clients.
    • As with all Clients, preference plays a key part in creating a great fit for an Extended Client.
    • It is important to understand how your client would like to wear his clothes particularly his trouser waist placement. The illustration below demonstrates two different trouser placements for an Extended Client. These two placements result in two very different Trouser Waist, Outseam and Shirt Length measurements.
    • Make sure that your client places the trouser measurement belt where he would like to wear his trousers. This will ensure that you capture accurate core measurements for a great fit.
    • T.A.P.E. will recommend your Client with a chest over 51″ into  JH Fit Uni Block or Extended Plus based on his chest to shirt waist ratio. If the Client has a shirt waist that is more than 1.5″ larger than his chest measurement, he will be recommended into Extended Plus. 
    • Extended Plus sportcoats have a longer length in front to provide a balanced hem line front to back.
    • T.A.P.E™ will recommend your Client to the JH Fit or Extended Plus pattern based on his core measurements.

    1.Always use the Sportcoat Fit Quiz to refine your extended Client’s Sportcoat recommendation.

    2.Many Clients may select Classic for their overall fit preference. We recommend changing the Sportcoat body preference to Trim to provide a well-fitting garment without adding too much ease.

    3.Selecting a Slim sleeve preference for your Client can provide a clean look while still being proportional to his size.

    4.Standard construction will provide a cleaner finish and shape for extended Clients

    Extended Fit

    Athletic Fit Sportcoat

    The Athletic Fit Sportocat is designed for a client with a chest size 38-60, a muscular upper body, and a large taper from chest to shirt waist. T.A.P.E™ will recommend Athletic Fit for your Client if he is the correct body shape.

    In general, Athletic fit clients have at least an 8” taper from chest to shirt waist and at least an 8” overarm. We recommend using Athletic Fit for these clients only.

    Windstopper jackets are not available in Athletic fit.  All other sportcoat styles are available. 

    special sportcoat options

    Does your client experience fly-away vents that sit away from his body? Our new vent strap option is the answer. Constructed from lining, the vent strap provides additional tension between the side vents ensuring the vents hug closely to the hip. This feature can be utilized by any client ordering a double vent.

    We offer two sportcoat shoulder slope options on the JH Fit profile only. A-body (sloped shoulder ) and T-body (square shoulder0 alterations are available. These are an uncommon alteration and we do not recommend using them on a first fit. 

  • Standard Thread Colors | Suiting

     DOWNLOAD STANDARD SUITING THREAD COLORS>>

    The standard thread color for our Made-to-Measure Suiting is “self-threading” – meaning it will match the fabric. For multicolored fabrics, please reference this document to confirm which color thread is used.

    For any questions regarding standard thread colors for suiting, please reach out to fitadvice@jhilburn.com.

  • Garment Care | MTM Suiting

    Here at J.Hilburn, we want your Clients to love our garments as much as we do. Part of that love and appreciation starts with how you care for your clothing. Below are some tips that we strongly recommend following in order to increase the life span and wearability of our Made-to-Measure Suiting.

    #1: ROOM TO BREATHE

    Storing sportcoats and trousers correctly directly relates to how they perform. It is important to hang them with ample space between items so they can breathe, release moisture, and recover. Not wearing the same item multiple days in a row will also aid in the recovery process.

    #2: QUALITY COUNTS

    When correctly storing sportcoats and trousers, it’s important to use quality hangers such as cedar wood. These will help maintain the shape and integrity of each garment, while warding off moisture accumulation and moths. To further reduce stress on garment seams, store all sportcoats unbuttoned and trousers unzipped.

    #3: DRY CLEAN SPARINGLY

    Just as we do not suggest dry cleaning for our shirts, we do not suggest it more than once a year for our jackets and only slightly more frequently for trousers,  as they can show wear more readily. If your Client feels a dry cleaner is necessary, be sure to do your research and find a reputable one. We recommend that you wash cotton trousers in cold water and hang to dry. For wrinkled garments, we suggest having them pressed rather than dry cleaned. Maintain cleanliness by routinely cleaning trousers with a clothing brush to remove dust and debris.

    J.Hilburn has access to the finest mills in the world. Our fabrics are very special and therefore deserve special care. By following the tips listed above, Clients will be happier with their products and increase their life span.

    Click here to view our Custom Shirting & MTM Suiting Garment Care PDF>>