Table of Contents
Sportcoat Fit Preference
Our Suiting is designed to integrate seamlessly with the T.AP.E™ pre-appointment survey. During the survey, your Client answered questions regarding his fit preferences. His preference answers combined with his core measurements are used by T.AP.E™ to generate his Sportcoat and Trouser profile.
The slim preference has a shorter length hitting the Client at mid-seat. It is contoured and Fitted with less ease thru the waist.
The Trim preference has a longer length that covers the seat. It has more eas thru the waist for a clean look. This is our most common fit preference.
The Classic preference is our longest jacket. It has the most room thru the waist and a length that extends past the seat.
JH Fit Profile
The JH Fit Sportcoat profile was designed to simplify tailored clothing for new stylists. The JH Fit combines our most popular fits into one new pattern with advanced adjustment capabilities. New stylists no longer need to learn multiple fits and adjustments. By utilizing the T.A.P.E™ pre-appointment survey, a new stylist only needs to confirm the Client’s core measurements and fit preference to be well on the way to a great fit. Follow the links below for training videos and FAQ’s.
By clicking the edit button on the JH Fit Sportcoat profile a Stylist has access to all the information needed to achieve a great fit. The length tooltip on the editing screen provides the finished length of the client’s jacket including if he has a length adjustment. By clicking on Advanced Alterations a Stylist can confirm if T.A.P.E™ has recommended a length adjustment for the Client’s jacket.
T.A.P.E™ recommends Extended or Athletic patterns based on Client core measurements. Within the JH Fit profile under Advanced Alterations, there is a box that indicates which pattern is being used based on core measurements and client preference.
For a Client’s first sportcoat and trouser, we recommend using the T.A.P.E. Assistant to update the product profile. This quiz is located on the profile editing screen and is accessed by the blue Launch T.A.P.E Assistant button.
Using the T.A.P.E. Assistant, the new stylist can update a Client’s preferences for all aspects of his sportcoat. After selecting Apply the updated profile T.A.P.E. recommends will reflect these changes.
The Uni Block pattern is our base pattern which T.A.P.E™ recommends for all Client’s unless the Client requires an Athletic or Extended fit based on his core measurements.
Sportcoat Outseam
Sleeve length is the core measurement which is used for your Client’s dress shirt. This measurement is shortened by T.A.P.E™ in the sportcoat product profile by 1.25” for the sportcoat outseam length.
- Once a Client has a confirmed sportcoat outseam, changing the size or fit of the sportcoat will not affect this measurement. Since this measurement is taken along the shoulder to sleeve hem it is independent of the pattern.
- The only exception to this rule is for an existing client with a converted outseam. Since the converted outseam is based on a previous inseam measurement it will change slightly if the sportcoat fit or chest size is changed. For this scenario we recommend contacting Fit Advice for assistance at fitadvice@jhilburn.com.
No, the recommendation to shorten 1.25″-1.50″ from the core measurement sleeve length is the same for Extended Fit Clients.
We do not recommend ordering working buttonholes on a first order due to the difficulty of alteration.
Extended Fit
Just like our Standard Fits, our Extended Fit sizing is designed to the individual man, resulting in clothing that has the fit, personalization, and options that make J.Hilburn unique. J.Hilburn Extended Clients have access to all the amazing fabrics and style details as our standard sized clients and our full range of product offerings. With J.Hilburn you can outfit your Extended Client’s every wardrobe need.
Tips for TALLER Clients:
- Neck measurement = Have him lower himself by leaning over or bending forward
- Shoulder measurement = Have him squat slightly so you can easily see the tape; only have him sit if he is unable to squat down
Tip for ROUNDER Clients:
- For all circumference measurements that are taken horizontally (IE. Overarm, Chest or Waist) = Have him hold 1 end of the tape, while you walk around him with the other end. Once you’re back in front of him, you can take both ends of the tape to record the measurement
- In the Stylist Store we offer Extended Sizing Measuring tools to assist with measuring Extended Clients.
- As with all Clients, preference plays a key part in creating a great fit for an Extended Client.
- It is important to understand how your client would like to wear his clothes particularly his trouser waist placement. The illustration below demonstrates two different trouser placements for an Extended Client. These two placements result in two very different Trouser Waist, Outseam and Shirt Length measurements.
- Make sure that your client places the trouser measurement belt where he would like to wear his trousers. This will ensure that you capture accurate core measurements for a great fit.
- T.A.P.E. will recommend your Client with a chest over 51″ into JH Fit Uni Block or Extended Plus based on his chest to shirt waist ratio. If the Client has a shirt waist that is more than 1.5″ larger than his chest measurement, he will be recommended into Extended Plus.
- Extended Plus sportcoats have a longer length in front to provide a balanced hem line front to back.
- T.A.P.E™ will recommend your Client to the JH Fit or Extended Plus pattern based on his core measurements.
1.Always use the Sportcoat Fit Quiz to refine your extended Client’s Sportcoat recommendation.
2.Many Clients may select Classic for their overall fit preference. We recommend changing the Sportcoat body preference to Trim to provide a well-fitting garment without adding too much ease.
3.Selecting a Slim sleeve preference for your Client can provide a clean look while still being proportional to his size.
4.Standard construction will provide a cleaner finish and shape for extended Clients
Athletic Fit Sportcoat
The Athletic Fit Sportocat is designed for a client with a chest size 38-60, a muscular upper body, and a large taper from chest to shirt waist. T.A.P.E™ will recommend Athletic Fit for your Client if he is the correct body shape.
In general, Athletic fit clients have at least an 8” taper from chest to shirt waist and at least an 8” overarm. We recommend using Athletic Fit for these clients only.
Windstopper jackets are not available in Athletic fit. All other sportcoat styles are available.
special sportcoat options
Does your client experience fly-away vents that sit away from his body? Our new vent strap option is the answer. Constructed from lining, the vent strap provides additional tension between the side vents ensuring the vents hug closely to the hip. This feature can be utilized by any client ordering a double vent.
We offer two sportcoat shoulder slope options on the JH Fit profile only. A-body (sloped shoulder ) and T-body (square shoulder0 alterations are available. These are an uncommon alteration and we do not recommend using them on a first fit.