Chino and Short Master class

With the new Chino profile, you can achieve fit success for your Clients with a single product profile for all Chino fabrics.  By utilizing the new Fabric Stretch Index ( F.S.I.) we automatically adjust the finished measurements of a client’s Chino to ensure he achieves the same fit and feel with every fabric. Once a Client’s fit is established you can order with confidence knowing that all his Chinos will fit the same.

Table of Contents

Fabric Stretch Index

The J.Hilburn Fabric Stretch Index is the system we use to determine the stretchiness of our casual pant fabrics. Each of our fabrics is given an FSI number which is established by testing the LBS force necessary to stretch the fabric 20% in the weft direction. Based on the F.S.I. range each fabric is assigned to either the low, medium, or high stretch group.

  • The FSI is listed in Green Room and in the fabric description on J.Hilburn.com to help stylists understand how stretchy a particular fabric is. Begining in Spring 2024 F.S.I. will also be listed on casual pant swatches.

Great news! It is not neccessary for a Stylist to apply the F.S.I. to a Client’s profile. The F.S.I. is applied by T.A.P.E™  automatically behind the scenes before the finished measurements of a Client’s pants are sent to the factory. 

Chino and Short Hip Preference

How to Establish Fit Preference

During the pre-appointment survey your Client answered questions regarding his Chino fit preference. In step two he selected his hip preference and leg opening preference. If your Client is uncertain about his preference Trim is always a great option.

For existing Client’s utilize the ADD PROFILE button under Chino/Short on a Client’s measurement and fit page. Or select to create an F.S.I. Chino at order entry. The Chino Short fit quiz will automatically open and you can confirm your Client’s fit preferences.

The new Chino/Short profile lists the client preference at the top of the profile, similar to JH Fit Trouser.

The editing screen offers the ability to change a client’s preference using the Launch TAPE Assistant button. Tool tips  provide finished garment measurements and toggles allow for further customization of fit. 

On the 5 pocket editing screen the hip tooltip provides the finished hip measurement for each FSI group

On the Chino/Short profile editing screen the Short outseam tooltip converts the outseam measurement to an inseam measurement. This can be helpful if a Client prefers a particular inseam, say 9″ in his ready-to-wear shorts.

FAQ

  • Existing clients can continue to order from their confirmed profiles. F.S.I. will not be applied to existing profiles. Existing profiles can be edited but it will not be possible to create a new profile in the old body fit format.
  • Existing clients moving into a new fabric should create a new FSI Chino profile.

Chino QC data will reflect the ordered, expected, and actual measurements.

  • Ordered: same measurement as product profile
  • Expected: measurement sent to factory reflecting Client preference and F.S.I.
  • Actual: measurement taken by Q.C. operator at the factory.

For a Client who would like a different hip preference for different fabrics and styles, the Stylist should create multiple profiles. For example, if a client would like an Americano Chino with a slim hip and summer cotton shorts with a trim hip. In this case, the Client would have a Slim Chino profile and a Trim Short profile.

If your client wants to change the fit on his Chino, we recommend utilizing the product fit quiz to update his preference choice. 

The FSI adjustment does not affect the finished waist measurement of the Chino. The Chino finished waist measurement will always be 1″ larger than the ordered waist measurement. For example an ordered 32 waist will be finished at 33″.  When a Chino is ordered using the FSI profile the waistband of the pant is stabilized for all fabrics to achieve fit consistency. This means that even if a fabric is high stretch the waistband it will not stretch. If your client prefers to have a waistband with stretch select the Comfort Waistband option at order entry.