J.Hilburn Newsroom

Category: Fit Library

  • Chino and Short Master class

    With the new Chino profile, you can achieve fit success for your Clients with a single product profile for all Chino fabrics.  By utilizing the new Fabric Stretch Index ( F.S.I.) we automatically adjust the finished measurements of a client’s Chino to ensure he achieves the same fit and feel with every fabric. Once a Client’s fit is established you can order with confidence knowing that all his Chinos will fit the same.

    Table of Contents

    Fabric Stretch Index

    The J.Hilburn Fabric Stretch Index is the system we use to determine the stretchiness of our casual pant fabrics. Each of our fabrics is given an FSI number which is established by testing the LBS force necessary to stretch the fabric 20% in the weft direction. Based on the F.S.I. range each fabric is assigned to either the low, medium, or high stretch group.

    • The FSI is listed in Green Room and in the fabric description on J.Hilburn.com to help stylists understand how stretchy a particular fabric is. Begining in Spring 2024 F.S.I. will also be listed on casual pant swatches.

    Great news! It is not neccessary for a Stylist to apply the F.S.I. to a Client’s profile. The F.S.I. is applied by T.A.P.E™  automatically behind the scenes before the finished measurements of a Client’s pants are sent to the factory. 

    Chino and Short Hip Preference

    How to Establish Fit Preference

    During the pre-appointment survey your Client answered questions regarding his Chino fit preference. In step two he selected his hip preference and leg opening preference. If your Client is uncertain about his preference Trim is always a great option.

    For existing Client’s utilize the ADD PROFILE button under Chino/Short on a Client’s measurement and fit page. Or select to create an F.S.I. Chino at order entry. The Chino Short fit quiz will automatically open and you can confirm your Client’s fit preferences.

    The new Chino/Short profile lists the client preference at the top of the profile, similar to JH Fit Trouser.

    The editing screen offers the ability to change a client’s preference using the Launch TAPE Assistant button. Tool tips  provide finished garment measurements and toggles allow for further customization of fit. 

    On the 5 pocket editing screen the hip tooltip provides the finished hip measurement for each FSI group

    On the Chino/Short profile editing screen the Short outseam tooltip converts the outseam measurement to an inseam measurement. This can be helpful if a Client prefers a particular inseam, say 9″ in his ready-to-wear shorts.

    FAQ

    • Existing clients can continue to order from their confirmed profiles. F.S.I. will not be applied to existing profiles. Existing profiles can be edited but it will not be possible to create a new profile in the old body fit format.
    • Existing clients moving into a new fabric should create a new FSI Chino profile.

    Chino QC data will reflect the ordered, expected, and actual measurements.

    • Ordered: same measurement as product profile
    • Expected: measurement sent to factory reflecting Client preference and F.S.I.
    • Actual: measurement taken by Q.C. operator at the factory.

    For a Client who would like a different hip preference for different fabrics and styles, the Stylist should create multiple profiles. For example, if a client would like an Americano Chino with a slim hip and summer cotton shorts with a trim hip. In this case, the Client would have a Slim Chino profile and a Trim Short profile.

    If your client wants to change the fit on his Chino, we recommend utilizing the product fit quiz to update his preference choice. 

    The FSI adjustment does not affect the finished waist measurement of the Chino. The Chino finished waist measurement will always be 1″ larger than the ordered waist measurement. For example an ordered 32 waist will be finished at 33″.  When a Chino is ordered using the FSI profile the waistband of the pant is stabilized for all fabrics to achieve fit consistency. This means that even if a fabric is high stretch the waistband it will not stretch. If your client prefers to have a waistband with stretch select the Comfort Waistband option at order entry.

  • Update to Remake Options in Green Room

    In pursuit of our mission to streamline the Green Room for Stylists, we’ve upgraded our remake options. These enhancements address scenarios stylists may face and reduce the need for JH credits for non-refund-related purposes.

    Now you will have the ability to:

    • select a new fabric on a remake when the original fabric is out of stock.
    • change fabrics on any remake.
    • process a remake for style changes.
    • Charge the client for any price changes from the original order to the remake due to fabric or styling changes.

    Remake and Return FAQs

    • Remake: each customer is entitled to up to two complimentary remakes for custom shirts, suiting, casual bottoms, knits, and outerwear. Remakes are intended for a Client who is experiencing fit issue which can not be resolved by an alteration.
    • Return for JH Credits:  a client can choose to return a garment for JH credits if he is not interested in an alternative fabric or remake. JH Credits are automatically applied to a client’s account once the original garment has been received at the warehouse. Processing time for JH credits is 7-10 business days after shipping. Stylist will be clawed back the associated commission on a return for JH credits. 
    • Refund: Refunds will only be issued to the original payment method. Processing time for refunds is 7-10 business days after the garment has been received in our warehouse. Stylist will be clawed back the associated commission on a refund.

    • If a stylist is placing a remake and the fabric is out of stock, Green Room will display a field for selecting a new fabric in the same category.  After selecting a fabric, the stylist can proceed with the remake with the new fabric. Based on his fabric selection, the client will charged for any price changes from the original order to the remake.  If the Client does not like any of the available fabrics the stylist will need to process a refund. 

    On the final screen of the remake process, stylists have the ability to select a Rush or Extreme Rush Fast Pass and charge the Client accordingly. 

    CUSTOM REMAKES

    • All remake and alteration requests should be placed through your personal Stylist within 90 days of the order’s ship date. If you do not have a Stylist, please reach out to our Support team at support@jhilburn.com.
    • All remakes are reviewed by our Fit Advice team to ensure that remaking the garment is the best option. If we determine that the desired changes can easily be altered by a local tailor, we will contact you.
    • Please note, that a remake means that we will produce a brand-new custom garment for you. This will take approximately 3 weeks for custom shirts, knits, and casual bottoms, and around 5 weeks for suiting and outerwear.
    • Each customer is entitled to a maximum of two complimentary remakes for custom shirts, suiting, casual bottoms, knits, and outerwear. One should be enough, but we offer two, just in case.
    • In exceptional circumstances additional remakes may be approved if an item is lost in transit, arrives with a manufacturing defect, or has dimensions outside of our accepted tolerances. These exceptions must be approved by our Fit Advice team.
    • Remakes are subject to fabric availability. If your original fabric is unavailable a remake can be placed with an alternative fabric of equal or lesser value. If an alternative fabric is not available, the item can be returned for a refund.
    • Once your remake request is submitted, we will provide you with a shipping label to return your original items. If we do not receive your returns within 30 days, we’ll assume you’re keeping the items and charge the credit card we have on file
    • If your body measurements change significantly after your order is placed the terms and conditions of this remake and return policy no longer apply. In these circumstances, we will review on a case-by-case basis.

     

    CUSTOM RETURNS

    We will accept returns of shirts, knit tops, and casual pants that have been laundered once or twice. We encourage you to launder these items to remove normal garment shrinkage so that you can better evaluate the fit. However, J.Hilburn is unable to accept returns or remakes on Custom Garments that have been altered, damaged or show signs of excessive wear.

    • All requests for returns need to be made within 90 days from the garment’s ship date.
    • Refunds can only be issued to the original form of payment within 90 days of the original order.
    • Processing time for refunds is 7-10 business days after the garment has been received in our warehouse.
    • JH Credits can be redeemed to the original form of payment within 90 days of the original invoice.
    • J.Hilburn is not liable for returns that are lost in transit. Please keep a record of the tracking information when returning garments.

    If you believe your client’s garment was produced in error, please follow the process outlined on our factory error process page.

    Order Investigation Process

    • Remakes will now be approved for styling or personalization changes. Please note: a styling remake will count the same as a fit remake when calculating a stylist’s remake rate for Golden Tape.
    • We find that the best Client experience is achieved by confirming a new fit before proceeding with multiple remakes in a category. For this reason, we ask that the client choose the fabric he would like to proceed with first. Once his fit is confirmed the remaining garments can be remade.

  • 5-Pocket Master class

    With the new 5-Pocket profile you will be able to achieve fit success for your Clients with a single product profile for all 5-pocket fabrics.  By utilizing the new Fabric Stretch Index ( F.S.I.) we automatically adjust the finished measurements of a client’s 5-Pocket to ensure he achieves the same fit and feel with every fabric. Once a Client’s fit is established you can order with confidence knowing that all his 5-Pockets will fit the same.

    Fabric Stretch Index

    Table of Contents

    The J.Hilburn Fabric Stretch Index is the system we use to determine the stretchiness of our casual pant fabrics. Each of our fabrics is given an FSI number which is established by testing the LBS force necessary to stretch the fabric 20% in the weft direction. Based on the F.S.I. range each fabric is assigned to either the low, medium, or high stretch group.

    • The FSI is listed in Green Room and in the fabric description on J.Hilburn.com to help stylists understand how stretchy a particular fabric is. Begining in Spring 2024 F.S.I. will also be listed on casual pant swatches.

    Great news! It is not neccessary for a Stylist to apply the F.S.I. to a Client’s profile. The F.S.I. is applied by T.A.P.E™  automatically behind the scenes before the finished measurements of a Client’s pants are sent to the factory. 

    5-Pocket Hip Preference

    SLIM
    TRIM
    CLASSIC

    How to Establish Fit Preference

    During the pre-appointment survey your Client answered questions regarding his 5-Pocket fit preference. In step two he selected his hip preference and leg opening preference. If your Client is uncertain about his preference Trim is always a great option.

    For existing Client’s utilize the ADD PROFILE button under 5-Pockets on a Client’s measurement and fit page. Or select to create an F.S.I. 5 pocket profile at order entry. The 5-Pocket fit quiz will automatically open and you can confirm your Client’s fit preferences.

    The new 5-Pocket profile lists the client preference at the top of the profile, similar to JH Fit Trouser.

    The editing screen offers the ability to change a client’s preference using the Launch TAPE Assistant button. Tool tips  provide finished garment measurements and toggles allow for further customization of fit. 

    On the order entry screen, TAPE does not populate a 5 -Pocket profile. The stylist must chose an existing profile or create a new FSI Profile.

    On the 5 pocket editing screen the hip tooltip provides the finished hip measurement for each FSI group

    FAQ

    • Existing clients can continue to order from their confirmed profiles. F.S.I. will not be applied to existing profiles. Existing profiles can be edited but it will not be possible to create a new profile in the old body fit format.
    • Existing clients moving into a new fabric will need to create a new FSI 5-pocket profile.

    5-pocket QC data will reflect the ordered, expected, and actual measurements.

    • Ordered: same measurement as product profile
    • Expected: measurement sent to factory reflecting Client preference and F.S.I.
    • Actual: measurement taken by Q.C. operator at the factory.

    For a Client who would like a different preference for different fabrics, the Stylist will be able to create multiple profiles. For example, if a client would like an Americano 5 pocket with a boot-cut leg and a Bestretch 5 pocket with a narrow leg. In this case, the Client would have a boot-cut profile and a loafer profile.

    In the event you client would like to change the fit on his 5-Pocket, we recommend utilizing the product fit quiz to update his preference choice. 

    The FSI adjustment does not affect the finished waist measurement of the 5-Pocket. The 5-Pocket finished waist measurement will always be 1″ larger than the ordered waist measurement. For example an ordered 32 waist will be finished at 33″.  When a 5-Pocket is ordered using the FSI profile the waistband of the pant is stabilized for all fabrics to achieve fit consistency. This means that even if a fabric is high stretch the waistband will not stretch. If your client prefers to have a waistband with stretch select the Comfort Waistband option at order entry.

  • Sportcoat Master Class

    Table of Contents

    Sportcoat Fit Preference

    Our  Suiting is designed to integrate seamlessly with the T.AP.E™ pre-appointment survey. During the survey, your Client answered questions regarding his fit preferences. His preference answers combined with his core measurements are used by T.AP.E™ to generate his Sportcoat and Trouser profile. 

    The slim preference has a shorter length hitting the Client at mid-seat. It is contoured and Fitted with less ease thru the waist.

    The Trim preference has a longer length that covers the seat. It has more eas thru the waist for a clean look. This is our most common fit preference.

    The Classic preference is our longest jacket. It has the most room thru the waist and a length that extends past the seat. 

    Case Study: One Client, Three Preferencs

    JH Fit Profile

    The JH Fit Sportcoat profile was designed to simplify tailored clothing for new stylists. The JH Fit combines our most popular fits into one new pattern with advanced adjustment capabilities. New stylists no longer need to learn multiple fits and adjustments.  By utilizing the  T.A.P.E™ pre-appointment survey, a new stylist only needs to confirm the Client’s core measurements and fit preference to be well on the way to a great fit. Follow the links below for training videos and FAQ’s. 

    JH Fit PDF Training

    By clicking the edit button on the JH Fit Sportcoat profile a Stylist has access to all the information needed to achieve a great fit. The length tooltip on the editing screen provides the finished length of the client’s jacket including if he has a length adjustment. By clicking on Advanced Alterations a Stylist can confirm if T.A.P.E™ has recommended a length adjustment for the Client’s jacket. 

     T.A.P.E™   recommends Extended or Athletic patterns based on Client core measurements.  Within the JH Fit profile under Advanced Alterations, there is a box that indicates which pattern is being used based on core measurements and client preference.

    For a Client’s first sportcoat and trouser, we recommend using the T.A.P.E. Assistant to update the product profile. This quiz is located on the profile editing screen and is accessed by the blue Launch T.A.P.E Assistant button.

    Using the T.A.P.E. Assistant, the new stylist can update a Client’s preferences for all aspects of his sportcoat. After selecting Apply the updated profile T.A.P.E. recommends will reflect these changes.

     

    The Uni Block pattern is our base pattern which T.A.P.E™ recommends for all Client’s unless the Client requires an Athletic or Extended fit based on his core measurements. 

    Sportcoat Outseam

    Sleeve length is the core measurement which is used for your Client’s dress shirt. This measurement is shortened by T.A.P.E™ in the sportcoat product profile by 1.25” for the sportcoat outseam length.

    • Once a Client has a confirmed sportcoat outseam, changing the size or fit of the sportcoat will not affect this measurement. Since this measurement is taken along the shoulder to sleeve hem it is independent of the pattern.
    • The only exception to this rule is for an existing client with a converted outseam. Since the converted outseam is based on a previous inseam measurement it will change slightly if the sportcoat fit or chest size is changed. For this scenario we recommend contacting Fit Advice for assistance at fitadvice@jhilburn.com.

    No, the recommendation to shorten 1.25″-1.50″ from the core measurement sleeve length is the same for Extended Fit Clients. 

    We do not recommend ordering working buttonholes on a first order due to the difficulty of alteration.

    Extended Fit

    Just like our Standard Fits, our Extended Fit sizing  is designed to the individual man, resulting in clothing that has the fit, personalization, and options that make J.Hilburn unique.  J.Hilburn Extended Clients have access to all the amazing fabrics and style details as our standard sized clients and our full range of product offerings. With J.Hilburn you can outfit your Extended Client’s every wardrobe need.

    Tips for TALLER Clients:

    • Neck measurement = Have him lower himself by leaning over or bending forward
    • Shoulder measurement = Have him squat slightly so you can easily see the tape; only have him sit if he is unable to squat down

    Tip for ROUNDER Clients:

    • For all circumference measurements that are taken horizontally (IE. Overarm, Chest or Waist) = Have him hold 1 end of the tape, while you walk around him with the other end. Once you’re back in front of him, you can take both ends of the tape to record the measurement
    •  
    • In the Stylist Store we offer Extended Sizing Measuring tools to assist with measuring Extended Clients.
    • As with all Clients, preference plays a key part in creating a great fit for an Extended Client.
    • It is important to understand how your client would like to wear his clothes particularly his trouser waist placement. The illustration below demonstrates two different trouser placements for an Extended Client. These two placements result in two very different Trouser Waist, Outseam and Shirt Length measurements.
    • Make sure that your client places the trouser measurement belt where he would like to wear his trousers. This will ensure that you capture accurate core measurements for a great fit.
    • T.A.P.E. will recommend your Client with a chest over 51″ into  JH Fit Uni Block or Extended Plus based on his chest to shirt waist ratio. If the Client has a shirt waist that is more than 1.5″ larger than his chest measurement, he will be recommended into Extended Plus. 
    • Extended Plus sportcoats have a longer length in front to provide a balanced hem line front to back.
    • T.A.P.E™ will recommend your Client to the JH Fit or Extended Plus pattern based on his core measurements.

    1.Always use the Sportcoat Fit Quiz to refine your extended Client’s Sportcoat recommendation.

    2.Many Clients may select Classic for their overall fit preference. We recommend changing the Sportcoat body preference to Trim to provide a well-fitting garment without adding too much ease.

    3.Selecting a Slim sleeve preference for your Client can provide a clean look while still being proportional to his size.

    4.Standard construction will provide a cleaner finish and shape for extended Clients

    Extended Fit

    Athletic Fit Sportcoat

    The Athletic Fit Sportocat is designed for a client with a chest size 38-60, a muscular upper body, and a large taper from chest to shirt waist. T.A.P.E™ will recommend Athletic Fit for your Client if he is the correct body shape.

    In general, Athletic fit clients have at least an 8” taper from chest to shirt waist and at least an 8” overarm. We recommend using Athletic Fit for these clients only.

    Windstopper jackets are not available in Athletic fit.  All other sportcoat styles are available. 

    special sportcoat options

    Does your client experience fly-away vents that sit away from his body? Our new vent strap option is the answer. Constructed from lining, the vent strap provides additional tension between the side vents ensuring the vents hug closely to the hip. This feature can be utilized by any client ordering a double vent.

    We offer two sportcoat shoulder slope options on the JH Fit profile only. A-body (sloped shoulder ) and T-body (square shoulder0 alterations are available. These are an uncommon alteration and we do not recommend using them on a first fit. 

  • One Client: Three Preferences

    Which fit preference a client selects during the pre-appointment survey determines the shape of his finished sportcoat. Read below to explore how each selection changes one Client’s sportcoat. 

    Slim

    If this Client selects the overall Slim preference, T.A.P.E recommends the shortest length, slimmest sleeve and narrowest waist based on the Client’s core measurements. For this Client the recommendation is:

          • Slim Sleeve
          • Sleeve Outseam 35.50″ to show 0.50″ of cuff
          • -1 Length Adjustment 
          • -1 Waist/Hip Adjustment

    Trim

    If this Client selects the overall Trim preference, T.A.P.E recommends the standard length which will cover the Client’s seat, a larger sleeve fit and more ease at the waist. For this client T.A.P.E. recommends 

        • Standard Sleeve
        • 0 Length Adjustment
        • 0 waist/Hip Adjustment

    Classic

    If this Client selects the overall Classic preference, T.A.P.E recommends the longest length which will fall below the Client’s seat, a larger sleeve fit and the most ease at the waist. For this client T.A.P.E. recommends 

        • Standard Sleeve
        • +1 Length Adjustment
        • +1 waist/Hip Adjustment